Rattlesnake Avoidance Training Can Save your Dog

And spare you a fortune.

In summertime rattlesnakes are almost everywhere. Close to suburbs, in backyards and, of course, on off leash trails in the mountains around Los Angeles. Dogs get bitten by rattlesnakes quite often. Some are bitten more than once in a season.

This inevitably means huge vet bills.

Rattlesnake avoidance training can save your dog and a lot of your money.

During hot days rattlers stay in the shade. They come out to hunt in the cooler afternoon hours and at night. On cool days they warm up on rocks, in and under wood piles, anywhere they can hide and stay warm.

Dogs are curious about those strange critters, attracted to and fascinated by the weird noise and the strange smell. They will curiously, carelessly and quickly approach the rattler to sniff it out. Then they get bitten in the face.

The strike of a rattler is not immediately painful to the dog. Therefore, she will not refrain at once from sniffing or even snapping at the snake. Multiple strikes are a common result.

A visit to the vet is mandatory if you do not want to risk loosing your dog. Office fees are the inexpensive part. A vial of anti-venom serum will cost you between $ 600.00 and way over $ 800.00. Your dog may need more than one vial.

All in all a snake bite can cost you at least $ 2500.00. But it also can cost much, much more. I have heard of total costs of over $ 16,000.00!

The alternatives?

There are two I know of. One is an expensive rattlesnake vaccine. It is applied as a precaution to immunize the dog before he encounters a snake. But it does not keep the dog from being bitten and therefore does not eliminate the exorbitant vet costs.

The other is rattlesnake avoidance training. At $50.00 a session per dog it is actually a bargain. It also saves your dog a lot of pain and you much heartache.

How does it work?

A dog is trained to recognize and to avoid rattlesnakes by smell, sight and sound. During the training she is wearing an electro collar that is set to administer a small shock when the dog approaches a rattlesnake. The snakes are secured in double walled, snake proof cages. They will strike at the dog but can only hit the inner wall. The dog is safely out of reach but close enough to realize that something bad is going on. That's reinforced by the small shock from the collar.

Several passes may be required before the dog learns to stay away from the snake. When he does he can rest for a while. During the second part of the avoidance training the dog walks with his owner past the snake cage. He receives a small shock whenever he attempts to rush the snake. This is repeated until he stays clear of the snake. Upon successful completion of this part of the exercise, your dog can retire and rest shortly before the conclusion of the rattlesnake avoidance training.

The final exercise and test is for the owner to walk the dog on his leash towards the snake. If he refuses to approach the caged snake, he has successfully completed his avoidance training. If not, he will need to practice a little more till he gets it.

The rattlesnake avoidance clinic will keep your dog safe for several months or longer. However, repeat training is strongly suggested.

Rattlesnake avoidance training is frequently organized by organizations that promote outdoor activities or hunting. You can check with local clubs in your area for the availability of training classes. If you live in Southern California, go to http://www.ladyhunter.com/fourwinds/aboutsnakeclinic.htm for more detailed information. Google for rattlesnake avoidance classes or something like that and you will get many more trainers who offer avoidance training.

Here is another one link: http://www.patrickcallaghan.com/. Also for Southern California: http://www.kindredspiritsk9.com/snakes.html.

Any dog owner, especially those who live in the outskirts of cities or in the countryside, should expose their dog(s) at least once to a rattlesnake avoidance class.

Adopting A Shelter Dog(3) – The biggest mistake people make.

Dogs, cats, birds and a host of other animals of all kinds land in shelters for a myriad of reasons. The most common are abandonment, getting lost, owners move (out of State and cannot take dog with them), abuse and animal cruelty cases. There are many more reasons, most of them not as good as people would like to make them appear.

Though most sheltered dogs and cats get there without fault of their own, we must face the fact that there are also dogs and cats with a flawed character and/or wicked personality.

If you read my previous articles about how to select a good shelter dog and followed my advice, you should not have one of them. If not, read the articles before you pick a dog or a cat. If you already pulled the wrong dog, there is even more reason for you to avoid the next most important mistake adoptive dog parents can make.

They rescued a dog from being mistreated, abused, tortured cruelly. They saved his life. Now they want nothing more than to give her the best life possible with endless unconditional love.

What's wrong with that?

Doesn't love transcend cruelty and transform suffering?

Well, not quite with a dog. Dogs are pack animals. The pack gives them strength, protection, a home and order within a strict pack hierarchy. Everyone knows his or her place and abides by it. There is no love in our human sense in a pack – just order. A strong sense of belonging and security derives from this orderly structure.

Dogs live in the moment within their pack. What was yesterday does not count; it is today that matters.

Humans hold grudges and suffer from the pains of the past. But dogs are not little humans in furry suits. They are dogs. They behave like dogs. And they have the instincts of pack animals.

What is your biggest mistake on this first all important day? And on following days?

You picked the dog because of her cute face, his sad eyes and his injuries. You just want to love him, love her, love her to death to make up for all the pain she suffered.

Wrong.

When you bring a new dog into your pack (family or even your own single household), your new friend needs guidance. He has to learn what his proper place is in the pack order.

If you just shower him with treats, affection and pets as soon as he passes the threshold of your house and then, oh horror, even let him have free run of the house, you just made him pack leader. Now you adopted a problem! And time will not heal. It will only get worse.

Here is the correct way of bringing your new family member to the house. Here is how you introduce him to the other pack members.

Before taking her home, go for a long controlled walk. Don't let the dog run ahead of you wherever she wants to go. Don't let him pull you through the neighborhood.

Walk him under your control for at least 30 minutes or more. He should be pleasantly tired before you bring her into her new house. The dog needs this because she has been cooped up in a small kennel run for a long time without a chance of working off excess energy. Let him do that outside before you go home.

Once you get to your house do not bring him inside and let him off the leash. He will have to stay on the leash at all times for several weeks until he has learned where to stay, where not to go and when to do it.

This also makes it easier to prevent accidents. Kennel dogs may have forgotten what it means to be house broken!

On the leash you can show him the house. Lead him to his sleeping place and bed.

Do this all in a calm and self-confident manner. No excitement. No raised high pitched baby voices. The last thing you want is an excited dog with no manners.

And, please, please, do not give him treats just for being in your house. Treats must be earned – always. No exceptions. Just being there is not 'earning' something. Positive action, response to commands, calm demeanor are.

Do not let your new friend jump on furniture without being invited. Never ever and especially not when she just came into the house. Pack leaders sit on furniture – not screeching little cute dogs.

Apropos noise. Do not allow the newcomer to be a noise machine.

A knock on the door is not a good reason for a fit of hysterical barking and uncontrollable excitement.

You must, repeat must, exercise your dominant position at all times by strictly controlling your dogs environment and his behavior. Yes, it is a chore and tiring. But without it, your dog will sense your weakness and appoint himself pack leader. Then your problems really start!

If this all sounds too involved and too demanding for you, if you do not believe in strict control over your animal but would rather kiss his cute face all day long, if you feel sorry for her past sufferings and have the ardent desire to shower your dog with unconditional affection, if you believe that treats will make up for past injustice, then maybe you should consider not having a dog.

Because otherwise you will get what you asked for: A problem dog or, at best, a nuisance dog. And fewer friends.

Let's recall the first important steps in bringing a new dog to your home:

1. Take him for a long walk before you bring him to the house. Don't let him take you for a walk.

2. Keep her on a leash while introducing her to the new environment and other family members.

3. Keep her on a leash inside at all times for at least the first four weeks. Even longer depending on behavior.

4. Strictly control his life and environment from bedding over food to when and how to interact with other family members. You tell him when, where, how and what to do at all times. He follows your lead.

5. Make her always work first for treats and affection. They are a reward for good behavior that must be earned. No free rides. Ever.
   

6. Demonstrate and exercise your control and dominance at all times in a calm and controlled manner. Do your best not to get frustrated and angry. It will defeat your purpose.

7. Always go first through doors or other narrow passages. Keep your dog on your side, not on a flex leash running ahead of you and getting into everyone's way.

Most importantly, always remember the three most important actions in controlling a dog and making him a good canine citizen. In the (almost immortal) words of the Dog Whisperer:

Exercise

Discipline

Affection.

In that order, none other. It works.

I discovered it myself while rehabilitating old, aggressive longterm occupants of a rescue kennel without even knowing of the Dog Whisperer.

They represent true and proven principles.

They will also work for you.

PJJ

More to follow.

Gabe's Plea – Waiting For The One To Love

My name is Gabe. I am a young, dashing Mastiff bulldog with a tragic story of physical injury and emotional abandonment. Maybe you read my story below. If not, click here and find out everything about the bad cards life dealt me.

May I please share an excerpt from my medical notes with you? I love to read medical notes. They make me feel important.

Mine read: “. . . 5 year old neutered, abandoned by owner at emergency clinic. He was hit by car. Very active and can walk but is weak in the hind legs has a pelvic fractures that will heal well with strict cage rest . . .”

Well, luckily I am beyond cage rest. In fact, I am doing quite well. I love to run, to explore, to go on walks, to play in the cool green grass. But most of all I love to be with people. The more the merrier, the closer the better.

My hobbies?

To cuddle with people.

I love to sit in people's lap to give them slobbery kisses. Sometimes it is difficult to sit there because they have small laps and I am a big dog. But we always manage a few hugs and kisses before I fall off. If all else fails, I lean gently but firmly against them to feel their body and collect hugs and pets.

Back in my kennel on death row, coming back from brief outings, I used to sit and reminisce about the good, pleasant, warm and cozy feeling of being close to someone.

Oh, how I long to be close. How I crave the warmth and security of a family. My heart aches for a chance to be with people and to share my life with them. On earth I have lots to give: Dedication, affection, loyalty, protection and a never ending stream of big slobbery Mastiff bulldog kisses. Beyond the Rainbow Bridge I will faithfully be waiting for you ready to be a witness to your goodness.

Right now I am moving from kennels to temporary foster homes. I admit, it is better than sitting on death row in an animal shelter, but I really desire my own family and a permanent home. Believe me, I need very little: A warm place, a simple but nice bed, some good food, time with my people and lots and lots of affection.

Therefore, if you have an empty spot in your house and heart and crave to fill it with warm affection and a cuddly body, I just have the goods for you.

So, jump into your cars and hurry over here to bring me to your home. I will reward you with undying loyalty, limitless love and everything else only a big heart can provide – a big grateful heart.

People say the only thing bigger than Gabe's head is his heart.

It is boundless!

Backyard Breeders Versus 'Spay And Neuter'

By PJJ

It is raining Boxers and other popular breeds. The shelters are full of relatively young dogs and puppies. It almost does not matter what shelter you go to -urban, suburban or rural. They all have plenty of young dogs. What is the reason for this flood of young dogs, I asked myself.

A chance conversation with shelter staff gave me a possible answer. When asked about the many young Boxers in his shelter, he said that this influx of puppies and very young animals happens regularly at least once a year. It is timed to the mating season in spring and fall.

The culprits are backyard breeders. They own a male or a female, sometimes both, find a suitable partner and mate the dogs. When the litter arrives, they wait till the puppies are big enough to evaluate their personalities and looks. Then they take the pick of the litter for themselves either to breed them later or to sell them.

Any dog that does not make the cut is given away, often to people who do not have honorable motives. That is how many of the 'bait dogs', used to train fighting dogs, come to dog fighters. If a dog is lucky, he is just given away to a friend. Let us hope that she ends up in a good home.

If not, she will eventually land either on the streets as a stray or have a short stint as 'bait'. In any case, the end is almost always either death or the local shelter.

Some of the less desirable puppies go directly to the shelter. Those are the lucky ones. At least they are spared life on the streets, disease and torture. They have a chance of finding a good home. And if they don't? Then they will die in the shelter.
You may not want to hear it because it is unsettling, but you must face the truth. Only when enough people get upset with this sorry state of affairs and push for change will backyard breeding eventually stop.

The best and most effective solution in my opinion is to make 'spay and neuter' a law and to enforce it vigorously. Legitimate breeders can of course continue to breed provided they register their operation, get licensed and are subject to vigorous quality control. No more mating dogs because two unaltered animals happen to be around.

Spay and neuter is the only method to reduce the number of unwanted dogs and cats. If we do not have the courage to commit to this program, enforce it and reduce, if not eliminate, uncontrolled breeding in backyards, our animal shelters will continue to be overcrowded. Countless dogs and cats will die in shelters every day.
Not because shelter staff is blood thirsty, but because irresponsible humans put their ego and greed before animal welfare.

If your heart bleeds when you see a suffering dog or cat at a shelter, quit 'begging on your knees' for her rescue but instead get involved in promoting spay and neuter programs. That is the only reasonable solution to end the suffering of countless animals. Saving one by pushing, shoving and begging, will not have a long lasting effect. You save one and three more take his place.

So, do the reasonable thing: Promote and enforce spay and neuter programs!

The Biters Are Small - And Bark A Lot

The Journal of Applied Animal Behavior Science recently published the results of a study on aggressive dog breeds. Who made the list of most aggressive, based on the number of bites on humans and dogs – Pit bull, Rottweiler, Doberman, German Shepherd, Akita, Chow Chow or even Dogo Argentino?

No!

Small Dogs!

Of course.

Most aggressive:

Dachshund

Chihuahua

Jack Russel

Any owner of a medium to large sized breed could have told you so. Just walk one of those larger dogs through an urban neighborhood at dog walking time. You and your dog will have to put up with these noise machines and their aggressive behavior every other step of the way. They rage from behind closed windows, yap wildly from the safety of the other side of a fence, and screech from balconies, throw tantrums in cars, smearing saliva all over windows and seats. They even snarl at your poor dog from the shoulder bag of young ladies.

Guess who gets disciplined. Not the small dog!

But seriously, many breeds of small dogs are scaled down versions of larger dogs. Made small to serve specific purposes, such as chasing foxes and badgers out of their burrows, hunting and killing rodents or pursuing game during hunts. There are most likely as many reasons for going small as there are breeds of small dogs.

Furthermore, small dogs designed to perform the tasks of hunting specialists, also had to be bred to act and think independently and without cues from their owners. Just imagine a badger dog in a life and death fight with a badger in his burrow two feet underground waiting for instructions and support from the hunter!

The Dachshund is a very typical example for this type of dog. And, tada, Dachshunds are the most aggressive biting breed of all dogs.

It is not surprising to me. We had a miniature Dachshund for many years. He was the Dr. Jekyll of the dog world. Nice and placid one moment and a raging pair of vicious teeth the next.

He was smart, independent and very, very stubborn. He also ate half the skin of my sister's guinea pig. He stole, killed and proudly brought home countless chickens from the chicken coop of the local nunnery. He kept our neighborhood clear of other dogs and bicyclists. And my father paid a fortune to his female patients for torn nylons.

The dog would sit on the steps leading to the entrance of my father's medical practice, happily greeting all ladies – until their legs just had passed him. Then he would whirl around and bite the ankle! Never failed.

He finally went to live with a hunter as a very successful and happy hunting dog.

Chihuahuas are the second most aggressive.

But you most likely knew that already. These little monsters with a Napoleon Complex greater than the original are the bane of many neighborhoods in Southern California and the tyrants of many a family.

“But he is so cute . . .”

Jack Russel, number three, were meant to chase and kill rodents. They are born killers, high strung, independent and accustomed to doing things their way. Could you ask your human for instructions when you are wedged between haystacks and facing a big cornered, angry rat?

Looking at the list of 'biting breeds', it is obvious that they were intended to do specific jobs; guarding house and flock, herding, hunting small pests and big game.

None were meant to spend a lifetime in some shoulder bag or in a small urban apartment. They are active dogs, independent, with lots of energy and smarts. They are not celebrity toys and couch potatoes. They too deserve a decent life.

Free of frustration and fear.

Fear is a major contributor to aggressive biting. How would you feel if your eye level suddenly were shrunk to 6 inches when everyone around you is at a 6 foot level? With huge feet that could trample on you at any given moment?

It would be scary, wouldn't it?

Is that an excuse for aggressive biting? No, it is not.

Pet owner are responsible for socializing and training dogs properly. We need to train our pets to be good canine citizens, give them sufficient physical exercise to keep them tired, healthy and happy. And we must provide daily mental stimulation to keep their minds occupied in positive ways.

Unfortunately, most people become dog owners by accident. Either they are given a puppy, find a sad looking dog in a shelter and feel compelled to rescue it or through some other coincidence. The majority of these new dog guardians, I daresay, do not know much about the breed they just acquired or about dog training in general.

In many cases the end result is an aggressive dog. Since small dogs are 'cute', they get away with much more than a larger dog. Thus, they are also more prone to join the ranks of aggressive dogs. Because in the absence of clear and determined leadership, the family dog will usurp that role. And defend it viciously and vigorously against all comers, including their own human.

Yes, small dogs too.

Especially small dogs!

You can find the most detailed discussion of the research report here: http://petloverstips.com/ForTheLoveoftheDog/news-updates/the-most-aggressive-dog-breeds-dachshund-1

A more general discussion of 'aggressive dog breeds' is found at this site:

http://dogobedienceadvice.com/which_dog_breeds_are_most_aggressive.php

Both web sites give great insight into dog aggression in general, what causes it, how to deal with it and how to avoid it as much as possible.

PJJ