This article is the first in a series of articles about adopting shelter dogs or rescued dogs from a dog rescue group. Future articles will deal with adopting from an animal rescue group, 'easy dogs' and 'difficult dog breeds, male versus female and other rescue and dog adoption related topics.
So you decided to bring a dog into your family. Better yet, you resolved to rescue a dog instead of getting one from a breeder. That's easy, you tell yourself. An animal shelter is close by and there are many more in my County. Moreover, humane societies and animal rescue groups all have highly adoptable dogs to choose from.
This is true. But it would be unwise to walk into an animal shelter and select a dog because of his looks, sad eyes or pleasant demeanor.
As a professional dog evaluator for dog rescue groups, I have learned that shelter dogs must be very carefully observed, checked out and evaluated before considering adoption. However, the most reliable way to evaluate sheltered dogs is to do the evaluation away from the shelter environment. Unfortunately, that is not possible. Thus much of the 'evaluation' is based on the evaluator's experience, intuition and good hand with all kinds of dogs.
Dog evaluation is not dog training. We are not testing here whether the dog responds to commands or stays or any of the other dog training stuff. Some measure of that is attempted and sometime achieved during 'temperament testing' of the dog by shelter personnel. Therefore dog trainers are not necessarily good dog evaluators.
Dogs end up in shelters because of some traumatic event in their life. Diagnosis of an expensive illness, abandonment by its owner, running away and getting lost, abuse and cruelty are only a few. As a result, all shelter dogs are scared stiff, confused, traumatized, depressed, unstable. This frequently leads to personality changes and neurotic behavior.
The longer a dog is confined in a small run at a rescue shelter, sometimes with kennel mates, the worse the situation gets. Life in a rescue shelter is unpleasant despite the best intentions of kennel attendants.
Shelter dogs become 'institutionalized' because of a lack of exercise, the deafening noise and the absence of positive interaction with humans and dogs.
The wiggly, happy puppy in the animal shelter could morph into a nasty nippy critter once he settles into your home. Yet, the barking, bouncing monster might surprise you with a calm demeanor once she gets to your home and starts feeling safe.
For most of us getting a dog from an animal shelter is an emotional process. Go to a shelter, look at the dogs in their cages, find a cute dog with sad eyes, begging for your attention by wagging her tail enthusiastically, take her home.
You just picked a dog because of it's looks and superficial first impressions. Not a good foundation for a lasting relationship. Chances are this dog will be back in the shelter.
So, how do you find the best dog for you among all the dogs in the rescue shelter?
By starting at your home!
Sit down with your family and list what you expect the dog to be: Breed, size, age, puppy or mature dog, male or female, small or large, active or sedate, fetcher or runner and so on. If you get a dog for the “kids”, keep in mind that an adult will most likely end up caring for her. Once all agree on the 'ideal' dog, you are ready to go to the animal shelter and look at adoptable dogs.
There are always many adoptable dogs in an animal shelter. Most are not very desirable because of looks and behavior, some more appealing and only a few that potentially meet your expectations.
Now it is time to find a kennel attendant and ask for the dog to be taken to a socialization area.
Please refrain at this time from interacting with the dog.
No look. No talk. No touch.
You do not want to excite the dog in any way. Instead watch!
Watch carefully when the attendant approaches the kennel run and how he deals with the dog. Also watch the dog's body language when approached in the run and on his way out.
Does the dog charge other dogs in their runs?
Is he afraid? Of dogs? Of anything else?
Position of his tail? Up, down, between the legs or straight back?
Pulling hard on the leash?
Does she listen to the handler?
Does she know commands (which?) and does she obey them?
The kennel attendant's body language can also tell you a lot. Chances are she knows more about the dog than she wants to tell you. Is he overly cautious? Or does he physically interact with the dog in a positive way?
How does the dog react to it?
Does she offer treats to the dog? How does the dog take the treat? Snap and swallow (including the hand that holds the treat)?
Does he become aggressive when the treat/food is tampered with?
Does the dog give up his ball or toy when asked to?
I generally ignore the dog and wait till he has relieved himself. It may take a while. But it also can give you a hint as to whether the dog is house broken or not. Most dogs avoid soiling their living quarters. Therefore, chances are that she is when she has a very, very urgent need to go in the outdoor area.
This quiet observation period is most important. It will give you very good insights into personality and demeanor of the dog. Wait for the dog to approach you on his own. Let him sniff you out. When she has initiated contact, you can freely begin to interact with her.
Play a little, check whether he is willing to accept your discipline, throw things to fetch, carefully give treats (protecting your fingers!). A good dog will approach you, gently sniff and touch you to initiate affection.
You do not want a dog that is racing around in the outdoor pen like a maniac, barking as if noise was going out of style, trampling on your feet, jumping up and putting his soiled paws on your white blouse and attempt to bowl over you or your child.
That dog does not necessarily make a good companion for young children or mature people. The incessant noise will wear you out quickly – and make your neighbors angry.
The most important and final test is also the most difficult: The test for dog aggression.
Animal shelters and rescue shelters generally do not allow dogs to be tested for aggression one on one. Yet that is the only way to determine with certainty whether a dog is dog aggressive or not.
Fortunately, shelters do temperament testing. Part of it is testing for dog aggression. However, since it is not always done, you still have to come to your own conclusion. I parade the dog up and down kennel rows and past as many different dogs as possible. It's not foolproof because dogs act not normal in a kennel environment.
Find the kennel attendant who is most familiar with the dog of your interest. Talk to her. They can tell you a lot. Most attendants have a favorite dog. They will be most accommodating when you are interested in 'their' dog.
Follow these procedures with every dog on your list. Carefully observe and compare all of them before you make a decision. Then sleep on it at least once.
Adopting a shelter dog is a lifetime decision. It is cruel to pull the dog from a shelter only to return her a few weeks or months later because 'it didn't work out'.
Haste makes waste! In this case it wastes a life.
